The City of Light: The Paris City Guide
Ah, Paris. I have now been two times and because I write my first trip off (the person I went with only wanted to stay in our room to Facetime her boyfriend….ANYWAY!) so I vowed to return to explore this magical city more. Originally when I went to Paris, I heard from plenty of Americans (ones that have never been to France I would like to add) about how rude the French are, how dirty Paris is, etc. I didn’t have any big desire to visit Paris so I went over with very low expectations and ended up enjoying the city more than I thought I would. So much I went back again and would not say no to a third trip.
Paris is SO big. I feel like I could go back to Paris multiple times and see something new or different each time. Paris is divided into twenty arrondissements – aka: administrative districts. I will not act like I am some expert on these and instead link you to the Wikipedia page here that is very informative. The Metro system in Paris is extremely efficient so travel between the arrondissements is very easy.
Paris offered much more in terms of what to do/see/eat/drink over Bordeaux so planning for Paris was much easier. That said, because there is so much to do, I didn’t get to it all. I want to share what I did do and loved with you as well as a few places I missed but will hopefully check out next time!
GETTING THERE:
We took the train from Bordeaux to Paris using OuiGo. Think of this line as the Ryanair of trains in France. The tickets were cheap (keep in mind that they are non-refundable) and you have to pay for any sort of upgrade you may want like an electric socket, there is no food or drink available on the train, etc. I found the train extremely clean and very efficient. The trains leave at random times, but I read online that that is part of the way they keep costs down by operating at off-peak times. If you are flexible, I would highly recommend using OuiGo.
WHERE I STAYED:
Accommodation in Paris is more expensive – that is just how it is! I mean, it’s Paris y’all. I knew we wouldn’t be in the room much (we never are!) so I set out to find somewhere for 2 nights for 200 or under. I made it by the skin of my teeth at Hotel Coypel. The hotel is older but well looked after. The room was fine for what we needed, and the bed was comfortable. There were plenty of Metro lines close by which made getting around easy. P and I did say we would like to stay in another area if we were to return but overall there is nothing wrong with Hotel Coypel, especially if you won’t’ be in the room much.
WHERE TO EAT:
Just like Bordeaux, I was only in Paris for just under 48 hours, so while this selection isn’t huge, it is good!
For brunch we tried to go to Holybelly 5, but the line was insane. I am sure the food is delicious, but we were hungry and not in the mood to wait so we headed over to CLINT, which was super cute, delicious and had the nicest staff. Ob-La-Di was another place on the list to try brunch but unfortunately, we didn’t get to this trip.
On our first night we had dinner at a place so special that I don’t want to share it. Not because I want to keep it to myself but because I don’t think the owner would want her restaurant all over the internet. I had to fight to get into this place and once in I knew to not take a single photo…. all before I even saw the “non-photo” sign. If you are interested in this dinner only location, you can contact me for details here.
For a late-night dinner after a few drinks we popped into Street Bangkok Local Food. We had seen this walking around town, and it was always busy and smelled unreal. The staff was not great, and they tried to overcharge us for being tourists, but the food was worth the hassle. I had satay (one of my favs!) with sticky rice and I was in heaven. Worth a visit but be careful to double check your bill before paying to make sure you’re not being taken advantage of.
A few places we just didn’t have time to make it to:
I saw La Relais de l’Entrecoteon a lot of blogs but after the steak and chips at La Taniere in Bordeaux only a few nights before we were all good on the steak and chips front. All the reviews I read were great though! There are multiple locations but the Montparnassein the 6th Arrondissement seemed to be the one most recommended.
Le Bouillon Chartier is one I was sad to miss! You do sit with strangers so if that isn’t something you’re cool with – be warned! Traditional French food at affordable prices – I must visit next time!
For your sweet tooth….the crepes (both sweet and savoury) at La Droguerie looked very tasty. The ice cream at Berthillon looked divine as well if ice cream is more of your thing. Stohrer is the oldest patisserie in Paris, offering baked goods since 1730.
If you’re feeling fancy Café Les Deux Magots is your place. Once known as the place for literary and intellectual élite of the city of the city to gather it is now a popular tourist destination.
The photos of Aux Merveilleux de Fred on Aspiring Kennedy’s blog made me want to try this brioche with sugar pearls in it but unfortunately, we didn’t find ourselves in this area of Paris and I wasn’t going to go out of my way for it. Maybe next time!
WHERE TO DRINK:
For some craft beer and to rest our tired feet (we were walking around 25,000 steps a day!), we popped into Mulberry Street. There isn’t really anything French about this, but the beer was good, and we needed a rest, so it was a nice place to chill out for a break between all the sights.
It was randomly warm the day we went to the Eiffel Tower so we decided to enjoy it and walked down the Seine River where we stumbled upon Fluctart, the world’s first floating “urban art center”. A bit hip but if the weather is nice it is a cool place to stop for a drink and watch the boats go by and soak up the sun.
We had a little happy hour treat at Bellota-Bellota after the Louvre. Be sure to stop by for a mid-day snack board and delicious, fresh bread. Wash it down with some affordable and tasty red wine.
A few places we just couldn’t squeeze in:
For craft beer I had Plan B (close to the Eiffel Tower!) and Brewberry (in the Latin Quarter) on the list. Others that made it on the list but we didn’t get to visit are L’Express de Lyon (looks like good pub grub too), Paname Brewing Company (this looks like it would be especially nice if you’re visiting Paris in the summer and could sit outside), La Robe & La Mousse (the cheeseboards look like they are to die for!), and Hoppy Corner (best for smaller groups).
I was sad to miss Bar le leche vin which looks like such a good time. Check this out for cheap drinks in a quirky bar.
Take a step back in time and enjoy a cocktail at Bar Hemingway (where he was a regular!) at the Ritz.
Unfortunately, these didn’t work out this trip but there is always next time!
WHERE TO EXPLORE:
On my first trip to Paris, the Louvre was closed. I still saw the monument and the gardens around which I would recommend doing even if you are not going to go inside.
To ensure that we would get in, I pre-purchased our tickets here. To avoid disappointment pre-purchase your tickets! We went in at last entry on Saturday at 5:30pm. We stayed for around an hour and chose to skip the Mona Lisa. The line was 45-minutes long and there is plenty more to see in the museum besides this. We saw other great works such as Liberty Leading the People, Winged Victory of Samothrace, and Venus de Milo so we weren’t too upset about missing the Mona Lisa.
Another thing I missed on my first trip to Paris and was sure I was not going to leave without visiting was the Père Lachaise Cemetery. The Doors are my favourite band and have been for more than half of my life (hello, I feel old!) so I HAD to visit Jim Morrison’s grave which is in the Père Lachaise Cemetery. I have wanted to visit this since I was 13 and I was finally able to cross this off my list – ironically at 27. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about just click here.
Be sure to check out the Latin Quarter, a buzzy student area where several higher education establishments are located. The area gets its name from the Latin language which was spoken in and around the area during the Middle Ages. A few things to do in the Latin Quarter include touring the Pantheon, checking out Medieval art at Musée Cluny, and explore Rue Mouffetard.
Something I would like to check out in the Latin Quarter on my next trip is the Shakespeare & Company Bookstore. This English-language bookshop is in the heart of Paris (opposite of Notre-Dame) and opened in 1951 at Kilometer Zero, the point at which all French roads begin. If you buy a book here be sure to get your book stamped with the Shakespeare & Company seal for a unique souvenir.
Rue Cler is the famous market street that I am sure you have seen on Instagram! Brimming with cafes and speciality shops this is apparently where locals go to do their daily shopping. Rue Cler is in the 7th arrondissement and open weekdays, all day Saturday and Sunday mornings. Many of the stores are closed on Mondays.
We walked Pont Alexandre III (this bridge connects the Champs-Élysées quarter with those of the Invalides and Eiffel Tower) at night, and it was gorgeous! We also went during the day, but I would recommend it at night – it is very romantic all lit up and with a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower.
Be sure to walk the Champs-Élysées and not miss the Arc de Triomphe at the western end. Admission to the Arc de Triomphe is free of charge for EU Citizens under the age of 25 and on certain days in a year, be sure to check their website before you visit.
I read on all the blogs and heard from everyone to do Musée d'Orsay over the Louvre. I wanted to do the Louvre to say I did it, but I will be sure to visit Musée d'Orsay on my next Paris adventure. Another perk of Musée d'Orsay is that it is free!
Tuileries Gardens are beautiful and not to be missed! I went on my first trip, so I skipped it this time, but it is well worth a visit. It is free and you’ll be sure to get some Insta-worthy shots here. If you don’t get your fill on gardens there, the Luxembourg Gardens are another one to check out.
Something I unfortunately missed on my first trip to Paris was Notre-Dame which has since as we all sadly know, burned nearly down.
And duh, the Eiffel Tower. Sadly, you can no longer walk underneath the tower unless you pay in and the walls around the tower do dampen the experience a bit but obviously safety is more important that looking at the Eiffel Tower in her full glory.
If you want to get those picture-perfect shots of yourself with the Eiffel Tower, you’ll need to go to the Trocadéro. I personally don’t care about getting these shots, but I know a lot of people do and this is the place to do it if that is important to you! If you want to get shots without everyone and their mom in the frame be sure to go early!
There is so much to do in Paris which means I’ll have to go back for a third time - poor me!
*all images original to Alexandra Furbee
Author’s Note: This post was originally published on my old blog in January 2020.